Garden Bed Preparation and Amending the Soil
Every plant in the garden has a root system. These root systems are woven within the soil. The conditions of the soil will determine the conditions of the plant material above the soil line. This is important to keep in mind. It is most important to create the conditions which allow the micro- and macro-nutrients to become available to plants more so than making sure they are simply present. Without the proper conditions, the nutrients will be hanging out next to the roots but the roots will not be able to pull the nutrients up through to the plant. As described previously, this ability is commonly determined by the soil pH.
If you are starting your garden bed from scratch there are a multitude of methods for going about bed prep. It is very common that people will “double dig” their soil. I'm not a big fan of digging, so double digging sounds even less enticing to me. Equally, I do not like to till my soil. When we till soil we take the microorganisms that are below the soil line and bring them to the surface where there are higher levels of oxygen and ultraviolet rays. These conditions kill these microorganisms and leave their bodies for the plants to feast on… in the short term. This appears to be great, leading to what seems like very fertile crops. But the fertility of the soil has diminished, so, in the long run the fertility of the crops will diminish as well, unless the soil conditions are replenished. Instead of using a Rototiller I like to use a powered harrow. This tool stirs the top few inches of soil, creating a soft bed for the germinating seeds and holds most of the soil integrity intact.
On the whole, I prefer using techniques that do not destroy the soil composition, but enhance it. The most common method that I like to employ is referred to as sheet mulching. Some people refer to it as lasagna gardening. This is a process where we put down a layer of compost (2”), followed by a layer of cardboard and a layer of mulch (2-4”). The compost ads carbon, microorganisms, and readily available nutrients. The cardboard will add carbon to the soil, and will block-out any sunlight from allowing weeds or weed seeds to grow. Mulch can be anything that will decompose in time that will shade out the ground until decomposed. Most commonly in the garden I use straw, wood chips, or ground leaves.
As stated previously soil tests are a good thing. It is best to take a soil sample before you do any of the amending and then every year thereafter. With the results from the soil test you will be able to determine how to specifically use some of the following products to boost the fertility in your soil.
I make a blend based on the results from my soil test out of the following materials:
Biochar
Dolomite lime
Celt
Oyster shell meal
Seabird guano
Fish bone meal
Feather meal
Alfalfa meal
Crab meal
Worm castings
Mycorrhiza
Compost
If I don’t have a soil test to go on, I will use the recommended dosage relative to the square feet of garden space I am working with. After I make my blend I apply it at the base of the plants and water in. Happy soil, happy plants!
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